Borivali-Churchgate: Life in a slow lane

Sometimes it's the journey that teaches you a lot about your destination

The time is 8:56 on the digital watch. One eye on the watch and the other on the swelling crowd around, the Mumbaikar wipes the sweat of his brow as he awaits the arrival of the Churchgate bound train at Borivali station. Two trains bound for Churchgate reach adjacent platforms at more or less the same time. One train is a fast local (trains running within the Mumbai metropolitan area are referred to as locals), making few select stops and the other train would be halting at all stations enroute to its final destination. As the trains near their halting point they lose steam. Men and women regardless of their age leapfrog each other to board the running train to reserve space for themselves in the compartment. Once the locomotive halts a mad frenzy breaks out to be the first to board the train. Clutching on to their belongings, passengers steamroll themselves through a narrow door. It’s nothing like you have experienced before. Some hold on to others shirts, belts and whatever they could lay their hands on to step inside the train. Those alighting at Goregaon and Jogeshwari occupy the passageway thereby blocking the entry. Swear words and fists fly left and right as fight breaks out between those that would like to enter and those who stand at the door. An animated crowd keeps pushing till they find an inch of space and that’s all you’ll get most often. The train whistles at 8:57 and thus begins the journey.

One big bogey family

Everyday millions of Mumbaikars travel by the railways. Divided into three major zones, Western, Central and Harbour, the railways have been the lifeline of Mumbai since its inception in the mid-19^th century. You haven’t seen Mumbai if you haven’t travelled in a local. Over the years it has witnessed live births and many deaths. Many relationships have been forged on the railway tracks. It is common to find groups traveling together, boarding the same train everyday every year. In one corner you would find a group of senior citizens playing rummy, the other corner you would find a group of college boys whatsapping, in another corner you would find a group of middle aged men discussing social and political apathy. The ladies discuss and debate last night’s soaps and exchange recipes. Then you would also have those who make the long journey melodious. A group of people get together and sing bhajans (hymns) and distribute prasad (religious offering). To add to the entertainment, Mumbai’s eunuchs use their uncanny ways to extract money from passengers. Mumbai locals are also home to hawkers and tramps.

Dreadful Journey

The journey of a few miles feels like a million miles as the locomotive chugs on from one station to another. Drenched with sweat, Mumbai’s common man finds a way to beat the heat, long hours in unnatural positions. Some even end up standing on a single leg for prolonged periods of time. The journey gets longer if the train halts at a signal or if there has been an accident. Rail accidents occur on a daily basis on Mumbai’s rail tracks. These have also become a hotspot for desperate individuals to commit suicide. Passengers hanging precariously at the train doors form a major part of train-related casualties. Claustrophobic compartments and inadequate ventilation have led to various health issues. Virar-bound trains are notorious in this regard. Thankfully, senior citizens have a reserved space for themselves in the compartments. For a newbie, boarding a local for the first time at a crowded station would be baptism by fire. It is near to impossible. I remember my first few days as a novice traveler. I used to let go of 3-4 trains hoping the madness would die down. If you can’t beat them, join them. Soon I learnt the trade and became an expert at not only boarding trains but also reserving a seat for myself.

Silver Lining

Despite the ominous conditions, the trains still form a vital part of all Mumbaikars. It forms the livelihood of millions of individuals who have come to this cosmopolitan to earn their bread and butter. Introduction of air conditioned trains on the Central line and improving passenger facilities at railway stations are a step in the right direction. Mumbai’s railways need a breath of fresh air. The infrastructure has to be upgraded at the earliest. Ease of travelling has to be improved. Mumbai’s railway infrastructure is creaking. It is being stretched beyond its limits by a burgeoning migrant population. Hopefully, the authorities would take notice of this to ease the burden by introducing alternate modes of transportation within the city. The Mumbai Metro is a good start but a lot needs to be done and the sooner the better. Till then, Mumbai’s locals will have to continue on their serpentine journey through this majestic city ferrying people to their destinations. 

Getting Wild Down Under - II

Adventure is worthwhile in itself - Amelia Earhart

Rise and Shine. Starting off from where we left over, it is time to get adventurous. Yes literally! Before we do so if you are not short on time try and spend at least a day to see the nature’s beauty around Flinders Chase National Park. The Flinders Chase Visitor Centre is a good starting point. It gives you a lot of handy information about KI and the National Park. This park is known for two iconic tourist attractions: Remarkable Rocks and Admiral’s Arch. So let’s explore.

Remarkable Rocks and Admiral’s Arch

Nature is also an excellent sculptor and the proof of this can be seen from the beautifully shaped rocks. They are truly remarkable and are the island’s signature landmarks. One can reach the rocks through a series of wooden steps. These rocks have been fashioned by environmental elements over a course of 500 million years. The rocks look as if they have been chiseled into some abstract piece of art. One can climb on these to gain a vantage point overlooking the ocean. The ideal time to visit this iconic spot is in the evening as you can catch the sunset at the Admiral’s arch. The sight is truly breathtaking. An ideal spot to try out your photographic skills.

Just like the Remarkable Rocks, the rocks are carved into arch’s by erosive forces. The Admiral’s Arch provides a scintillating view of the sunset and the New Zealand fur seals that colonize the rocky shores. You can find them jumping around in the cold waters of the ocean and are a treat to watch. In my opinion it is one of the best places on KI to end your day. There are a number of sunset viewing points so if you are in a group it won’t be a problem photographing yourselves with the sun setting in the background. A memorable group selfie.

Snake Lagoon and Rocky River Valley (Trekking)

For starter’s, the name is misleading. You don’t find any snakes over here. The lagoon gets its name from its serpentile rocky pathway (Rocky River Valley) and is only a few miles away from the Admiral’s Arch. It’s a popular trail among tourists and the trek leads you through the terrains to the mouth of the river where it meets the sea. If you don’t mind a short trek you can put on your trekking shoes and enjoy the walk.

Kelly Hill Caves (Cave Adventuring)

If you don’t mind getting yourself dirty then cave adventuring is the right thing for you. As you drive down the South Coast Rd from Flinders Chase National Park towards Vivonne Bay you encounter this little hideout. Remember the limestone formations from your textbook? Probably not. A range of structures emerging from the ceiling, sides and surface of the caves give it an impressive artistic viewing. These underground caves have been a feeding site for some KI inhabitants and a death trap for some unfortunate ones who fall through holes above the cave. The fossils of the dead are visible. You are given a guided tour with proper gear to crawl through narrow dark crevices. Yes you heard me right! You have to crawl like a reptile on your belly at certain spots.

Little Sahara (Sand Surfing, Quad Biking and Kayaking)

Nature has put a desert bang in between lush green outfields. Spread over two square kilometers, this sand oasis is perfect for sandboarding. I remember ending up on my back with legs pointing towards heaven. Sandboards can be hired from KI Outdoor Action. Try it. It’s fun.

While there, you may also hop on a quadbike for a guided tour and try your maneuvering skills on some well laid out dirt tracks and open grasslands.

To complete an action packed adventure you could choose to go on a guided kayak tour and wade through the beautiful Harriet river saying hello to nature as you pass by.

A word of advice if you plan on completing all of the above activities: Check the timings and requirements. KI Outdoor Action offers all of the above. A combined package could be much more economical.

Vivonne Bay

Continuing from Little Sahara, at a little distance along the South Coast Road, is Vivonne bay. Adjudged one of Australia's top beaches by University of Sydney, its known for its clear blue waters, privacy and easy accessibility. It’s worth taking a walk along the seashore. Swimming is not recommended here (even if you are a good swimmer). Before you head off to Seal Bay you may want to treat yourself to a sumptuous meal at Marron Café. The eatery is named after a relative of cray fish, Marron. Located on the Andermel Marron Farm, the place houses a Marron hatchery and you will be taken on a guided tour to see how these crustaceans are breeded. It is a local delicacy. Tasting locally produced wines is another added attraction at this site.

Seal Bay

Heading further along the South Coast Road to our final destination (not like the movie hehe..), we reach Seal Bay. This place is famous for the colonizing Australian Sea Lions. It is a breeding spot for these sea mammoths and the area is closely monitored by local authorities. Being closer to Kingscote the beach is a tourist hotspot.

If you take a map of Kangaroo Island and chart the course of our journey then we would have covered the whole island (or at least the most visited places on the island).

Few things to keep in mind:

• Avoid camp fire, you could cause forest fire. KI has had episodes of wildfires.
• Keep an eye for Kangaroos and Wallabies if you drive after dusk. KI wildlife comes alive after sunset.These nocturnal creatures are attracted towards light and may accidentally bump into your vehicle. Protect wildlife.
• Avoid travelling after sunset as fuel and other resources are scarce on this island after 5pm.
• Barring Telstra, other network providers have limited island coverage.
• Don’t forget to have fun.

Getting Wild Down Under - I

One of the fascinating places I have visited is Kangaroo Island, South Australia. This is where Australia’s wildlife comes alive. Nearly an hour’s distance from Adelaide by ferry, this island is paradise for all who love nature and seek some solace from their hectic lives. The island is just 150 km long but it took me two trips to unravel the beauty of this island. Rich in history and wildlife, KI is beautiful and serene.

There are number of places I visited and each and every one of them left me with awe. Planning your stay and destinations can be tricky. Communication via cell phones is not available throughout the island and fuel is restricted to only certain spots on the island. A map and a GPS navigator can come in very handy. I made a selection of some of the top destinations which could serve as a guide for anyone planning to visit KI.

Kingscote

The seaside town is one of KI’s biggest town and also the entry point into KI if your ferry is coming here. Word of advice: Refuel and load up on ration and water over here as you will find it hard to get anything elsewhere. People are warm and helpful. One can pick up maps and guides from the local shops. There are many lodges here to stay. They are economical and vary depending on the facilities available. Rooms are available for couples and large groups (7-8 people or more).  From Kingscote you may take either the Playford Highway which will take you through the heart of the island or take the Birchmore road which will lead you to the South Coast Road and you could experience some of the most amazing places along the coast. Let’s begin with the Playford Highway and make our way back through the South Coast Road. If you are staying overnight at Kingscote don’t forget to pay a visit to the most photographed person on KI-The Pelican Man. Watch him feed the pelicans. It’s a feeding frenzy! A guided tour of the seashore will allow you to catch a glimpse of the island’s nocturnal penguins. These endangered species are being closely monitored by the local community.

Emu Bay

The first place you would arrive at if you take diversion off the Playford Hwy towards the north coast. This is a very desolate area. Nice if you are with your family or with someone special. You can even take your vehicle onto the beach but I would recommend a walk down the beach. It is one of the safest places on KI to try out your new fancy swimming trunks. Look out for the eye catching Lavender Farm in this area. Locals who grow lavender also make and sell a variety of lavender based products like perfumes, oils, soaps to name a few.

Parndana

Parndana is the heart of KI. It is also a very good alternative to Kingscote if you want to set up camp over here.  From Parndana, one can either take the South Coast Road or continue on the North Coast Road. There is a wildlife park that one could visit but if you have been to other places in Australia chances are that you have already visited at least one other conservation park. They are more or less similar.

Stokes Bay

Stokes Bay is a drive down the North Coast Road from Emu Bay. A pristine beach along the northern coast, this one is dotted by a rocky shoreline and thus is accessible only by foot. One of the places that is a must visit places in this area is Paul’s farm. Known for domesticating some rare breeds, you get a chance to get cosy with animals that you would otherwise be able to see in a zoo or on your idiot box. I have some fond memories of this place. I remember holding a baby koala in my arms, a python round my neck and feeding a kangaroo off my hands. You can even get to hold emu eggs and if you feel particularly adventurous you could even let emu’s eat grains off your head (Caution: the pecking could get nasty, but it’s fun). A must visit.

Cape Borda Lighthouse

It’s recommended to take the Playford Hwy rather than continue on the north coast road if you are driving down all the way to Cape Borda. This is located within the Flinders Chase National Park but way off retreat houses. This lighthouse is perched on a cliff overlooking the Investigator Strait. This has some Australian maritime history which can be seen in the lighthouse attic.

Flinders Chase National Park

Driving back from Cape Borda Lighthouse it is advisable to retire at the Flinders Chase National Park retreat houses. One should check their reception times to book for overnight stay and plan accordingly or you would have to drive for miles (during peak season) before you could find accommodation for the night. If you are moving around in a caravan there’s also a caravan park nearby that you could use. You would need a camping permit if you are keen on camping in the wild. Nestled in the national park, the retreat houses are well furnished. Most of the KI creatures are nocturnal so don’t be alarmed if you hear all sorts of noises in the night. Enjoy the night in the wild.

Watch out for more in my next blog...........