Sometimes it's the journey that teaches you a lot about your destination
The time is 8:56 on the digital watch. One eye on the watch and the other on the swelling crowd around, the Mumbaikar wipes the sweat of his brow as he awaits the arrival of the Churchgate bound train at Borivali station. Two trains bound for Churchgate reach adjacent platforms at more or less the same time. One train is a fast local (trains running within the Mumbai metropolitan area are referred to as locals), making few select stops and the other train would be halting at all stations enroute to its final destination. As the trains near their halting point they lose steam. Men and women regardless of their age leapfrog each other to board the running train to reserve space for themselves in the compartment. Once the locomotive halts a mad frenzy breaks out to be the first to board the train. Clutching on to their belongings, passengers steamroll themselves through a narrow door. It’s nothing like you have experienced before. Some hold on to others shirts, belts and whatever they could lay their hands on to step inside the train. Those alighting at Goregaon and Jogeshwari occupy the passageway thereby blocking the entry. Swear words and fists fly left and right as fight breaks out between those that would like to enter and those who stand at the door. An animated crowd keeps pushing till they find an inch of space and that’s all you’ll get most often. The train whistles at 8:57 and thus begins the journey.
One big bogey family
Everyday millions of Mumbaikars
travel by the railways. Divided into three major zones, Western, Central and
Harbour, the railways have been the lifeline of Mumbai since its inception in
the mid-19th century. You haven’t seen Mumbai if you haven’t
travelled in a local. Over the years it has witnessed live births and many
deaths. Many relationships have been forged on the railway tracks. It is common
to find groups traveling together, boarding the same train everyday every year.
In one corner you would find a group of senior citizens playing rummy, the
other corner you would find a group of college boys whatsapping, in another
corner you would find a group of middle aged men discussing social and
political apathy. The ladies discuss and debate last night’s soaps and exchange
recipes. Then you would also have those who make the long journey melodious. A
group of people get together and sing bhajans (hymns) and distribute prasad (religious
offering). To add to the entertainment, Mumbai’s eunuchs use their uncanny ways
to extract money from passengers. Mumbai locals are also home to hawkers and
tramps.
Dreadful Journey
The journey of a few miles feels
like a million miles as the locomotive chugs on from one station to another. Drenched
with sweat, Mumbai’s common man finds a way to beat the heat, long hours in unnatural
positions. Some even end up standing on a single leg for prolonged periods of
time. The journey gets longer if the train halts at a signal or if there has
been an accident. Rail accidents occur on a daily basis on Mumbai’s rail
tracks. These have also become a hotspot for desperate individuals to commit
suicide. Passengers hanging precariously at the train doors form a major part
of train-related casualties. Claustrophobic compartments and inadequate
ventilation have led to various health issues. Virar-bound trains are notorious
in this regard. Thankfully, senior citizens have a reserved space for
themselves in the compartments. For a newbie, boarding a local for the first
time at a crowded station would be baptism by fire. It is near to impossible. I
remember my first few days as a novice traveler. I used to let go of 3-4 trains
hoping the madness would die down. If you can’t beat them, join them. Soon I
learnt the trade and became an expert at not only boarding trains but also
reserving a seat for myself.
Silver Lining
Despite the ominous conditions,
the trains still form a vital part of all Mumbaikars. It forms the livelihood
of millions of individuals who have come to this cosmopolitan to earn their
bread and butter. Introduction of air conditioned trains on the Central line
and improving passenger facilities at railway stations are a step in the right
direction. Mumbai’s railways need a breath of fresh air. The infrastructure has
to be upgraded at the earliest. Ease of travelling has to be improved. Mumbai’s
railway infrastructure is creaking. It is being stretched beyond its limits by
a burgeoning migrant population. Hopefully, the authorities would take notice
of this to ease the burden by introducing alternate modes of transportation
within the city. The Mumbai Metro is a good start but a lot needs to be done
and the sooner the better. Till then, Mumbai’s locals will have to continue on
their serpentine journey through this majestic city ferrying people to their
destinations. 

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