Thursday, May 26, 2016

Borivali-Churchgate: Life in a slow lane



Sometimes it's the journey that teaches you a lot about your destination



Borivali Station
The time is 8:56 on the digital watch. One eye on the watch and the other on the swelling crowd around, the Mumbaikar wipes the sweat of his brow as he awaits the arrival of the Churchgate bound train at Borivali station. Two trains bound for Churchgate reach adjacent platforms at more or less the same time. One train is a fast local (trains running within the Mumbai metropolitan area are referred to as locals), making few select stops and the other train would be halting at all stations enroute to its final destination. As the trains near their halting point they lose steam. Men and women regardless of their age leapfrog each other to board the running train to reserve space for themselves in the compartment. Once the locomotive halts a mad frenzy breaks out to be the first to board the train. Clutching on to their belongings, passengers steamroll themselves through a narrow door. It’s nothing like you have experienced before. Some hold on to others shirts, belts and whatever they could lay their hands on to step inside the train. Those alighting at Goregaon and Jogeshwari occupy the passageway thereby blocking the entry. Swear words and fists fly left and right as fight breaks out between those that would like to enter and those who stand at the door. An animated crowd keeps pushing till they find an inch of space and that’s all you’ll get most often. The train whistles at 8:57 and thus begins the journey.


One big bogey family
Bhajans in Mumbai train
Everyday millions of Mumbaikars travel by the railways. Divided into three major zones, Western, Central and Harbour, the railways have been the lifeline of Mumbai since its inception in the mid-19th century. You haven’t seen Mumbai if you haven’t travelled in a local. Over the years it has witnessed live births and many deaths. Many relationships have been forged on the railway tracks. It is common to find groups traveling together, boarding the same train everyday every year. In one corner you would find a group of senior citizens playing rummy, the other corner you would find a group of college boys whatsapping, in another corner you would find a group of middle aged men discussing social and political apathy. The ladies discuss and debate last night’s soaps and exchange recipes. Then you would also have those who make the long journey melodious. A group of people get together and sing bhajans (hymns) and distribute prasad (religious offering). To add to the entertainment, Mumbai’s eunuchs use their uncanny ways to extract money from passengers. Mumbai locals are also home to hawkers and tramps.

Dreadful Journey
Mumbai RailwaysThe journey of a few miles feels like a million miles as the locomotive chugs on from one station to another. Drenched with sweat, Mumbai’s common man finds a way to beat the heat, long hours in unnatural positions. Some even end up standing on a single leg for prolonged periods of time. The journey gets longer if the train halts at a signal or if there has been an accident. Rail accidents occur on a daily basis on Mumbai’s rail tracks. These have also become a hotspot for desperate individuals to commit suicide. Passengers hanging precariously at the train doors form a major part of train-related casualties. Claustrophobic compartments and inadequate ventilation have led to various health issues. Virar-bound trains are notorious in this regard. Thankfully, senior citizens have a reserved space for themselves in the compartments. For a newbie, boarding a local for the first time at a crowded station would be baptism by fire. It is near to impossible. I remember my first few days as a novice traveler. I used to let go of 3-4 trains hoping the madness would die down. If you can’t beat them, join them. Soon I learnt the trade and became an expert at not only boarding trains but also reserving a seat for myself.

Silver Lining
Churchgate StationDespite the ominous conditions, the trains still form a vital part of all Mumbaikars. It forms the livelihood of millions of individuals who have come to this cosmopolitan to earn their bread and butter. Introduction of air conditioned trains on the Central line and improving passenger facilities at railway stations are a step in the right direction. Mumbai’s railways need a breath of fresh air. The infrastructure has to be upgraded at the earliest. Ease of travelling has to be improved. Mumbai’s railway infrastructure is creaking. It is being stretched beyond its limits by a burgeoning migrant population. Hopefully, the authorities would take notice of this to ease the burden by introducing alternate modes of transportation within the city. The Mumbai Metro is a good start but a lot needs to be done and the sooner the better. Till then, Mumbai’s locals will have to continue on their serpentine journey through this majestic city ferrying people to their destinations. 

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